How-to & method

How do you tile a wall?

The steps a tiler follows — and where a DIY job most often goes wrong.

The short answer

Tiling a wall follows a set order: prepare the surface so it is clean, flat and primed; set out the tiles from a centre line with a batten or laser so cuts fall evenly at the edges; apply adhesive with a notched trowel and bed each tile with spacers; cut tiles for edges, sockets and corners; then, once the adhesive has cured for about 24 hours, grout the joints and finish with sealant where tiles meet baths, worktops or trims. The detail that makes the difference is preparation and setting out — most DIY problems come from tiling onto an uneven surface or starting from the wrong point, which leaves lippage and awkward thin slivers at the edges.

Knowing the steps helps you understand a quote, judge the work, or take on a small job yourself. This is the method a tiler follows; it isn't a substitute for the manufacturer's adhesive and grout instructions.

The tiling steps

The steps in order

  1. Prepare the surface: make sure the wall is sound, clean, dry and flat. Fill or skim hollows, and prime absorbent surfaces so the adhesive bonds.
  2. Set out: find the centre and use a level batten or laser line so full tiles sit in the most visible places and cuts fall evenly at the edges and corners.
  3. Fix the tiles: spread adhesive with the correct notched trowel, press each tile home, and use spacers to keep the joints even. Check the level as you go.
  4. Cut: measure and cut tiles for edges, around sockets, pipes and corners with a tile cutter or wet saw.
  5. Grout and seal: once the adhesive has cured (usually about 24 hours), fill the joints with grout, wipe clean, and apply sealant where tiles meet baths, basins, worktops or trims.

Where DIY tiling goes wrong

The most common mistakes aren't in the fixing — they're in the preparation and setting out. Tiling onto an uneven or unprimed wall leads to lippage (tiles sitting proud of each other) and poor adhesion. Starting from the wrong point leaves ugly thin slivers at one edge and lopsided cuts around features. Other frequent slips are using the wrong adhesive or trowel size, skipping spacers, grouting before the adhesive has cured, and forgetting to seal the wet joints. A patient set-out and proper prep are what separate a tidy finish from one that has to be redone.

When to call a tiler: a small splashback is a reasonable DIY job, but a full wall, a wet area that needs tanking, or large-format and natural-stone tiles reward experience — the setting-out, cutting and waterproofing are where a professional finish is earned.

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Frequently asked questions

What is the first step in tiling a wall?

Preparing the surface. The wall needs to be clean, dry, sound and flat, with hollows filled and absorbent surfaces primed so the adhesive bonds properly. Most tiling problems start with poor preparation.

Where should you start tiling a wall?

From a set-out centre line rather than a corner, using a level batten or laser, so full tiles sit in the most visible places and cuts fall evenly at the edges. Starting from the wrong point leaves thin slivers and lopsided cuts.

How long after tiling can you grout?

Usually about 24 hours, so the adhesive has cured and the tiles won't move. Grouting too early can weaken the joints and pull tiles out of line. Always follow the adhesive maker's stated curing time.

Sources & further reading

Figures on this page are typical UK ranges drawn from published sources and depend on your specific room. They are guidance, not a quotation.